Marahni Peak and Pass at GHNP
I have always believed journey’s are beautiful and I must say this one made a mark in my memory forever.
Year 2013 Dec, Subbu and I had attempted Chandrashila peak but because of bad weather we had to descend down from our 1st campsite. The dream to trek was still alive in us. As we waited for Ira to grow up and be ready to trek with us, this year we decided to climb Chandrashila.While discussing the idea of Himalayan trek with the parents of Ira’s two friends Rutika & Saanvi ( Shilpa & Trushar, Yamini & Chirag) , they immediately agreed to join us on this adventure.
Choosing the right trek for us especially with kids was important and my sister and brother in law ( Shilpa & Sandeep – Avid Himalayan trekkers ) helped us choose “Hampta Pass” as our adventure journey !We started to dream and prepare. Every Saturday morning we would be on different treks near Pune and that itself gave us so much fulfilment. The whole experience of preparation was very enriching. As the day of starting the trek was approaching, there was excitement and anxiousness both as it was for the first time we were looking forward to finishing the trek.It is said that it is always a call from the mountains. They choose you as much as you choose them. Exactly a week before we were to start the trek, we had to change the plan from Hampta Pass to Marahni Peak ( at Great Himalayan National Park ) because the weather conditions around Hampta were really bad and lot of snow not allowing even the first campsite to be approachable. I was not disappointed as the only thing I wanted was trekking to be a great experience for all of us. Safety is always a question as you never know how the weather God chooses to test you but I was confident that we were up to a great adventure !
Trek Route & Itinerary
Total distance of ~35 km over 6 days trek starting from Pekhri ( From Tirthan Valley ) and ending at Brishangad (Towards Sainj Valley ).
Day 1 – Pekhri to Rangthar ( 5 km )
Day2 – Rangthar to Kundri ( 6 km)
Day 3 – Kundri to Marahni top to OOkhal ( 9 km)
Day 4 – Ookhal to Raj Thach ( 4 km)
Day 5 – Raj Thach to Sara Lake ( 4 km )
Day 6 – Sara Lake to Brishanghad ( 6 km )
Day -1 9:30 PM – We started our journey from Pune to Mumbai. The journey to mumbai airport was covered in just 3 hours which was the fastest for me in the many times I have travelled to Mumbai.
Mumbai airport is my favourite and stepping into it always makes me feel nostalgic. The many international trips and reflections and self discoveries have happened for me when I had been travelling solo for work and revisiting it in moments as memories made me feel super nostalgic.
Day 02 6:30 AM – Flight to Chandigarh was very smooth. We freshened up at the airport while Parmod ( our tempo traveller driver ) was eagerly waiting for us to take us to Jibhi. We met him at 9 am and immediately started for Jibhi.
This road trip to Jibhi was special as we had visited last year and could find many familiar places and eateries which we crossed. The memory test and excitement like a child started to build up as we started steep climbing from Aut to Jibhi. Jibhi is a beautiful place with peace and tranquillity. The natural waterfalls because of snow and rain were very beautiful.
This road trip to Jibhi was special as we had visited last year and could find many familiar places and eateries which we crossed. The memory test and excitement like a child started to build up as we started steep climbing from Aut to Jibhi. Jibhi is a beautiful place with peace and tranquillity. The natural waterfalls because of snow and rain were very beautiful.
Around 7 pm we finally reached Jibhi. It was a moment of delight to meet Ved ( Our trek guide ), his family at the cosy nest Wayward Inn he has built for his guests which is full of love and hospitality ! It was raining heavily and was too cold. The inhouse bonfire helped us stay warm. We had a sumptuous meal and rested for the night as we were to start the trek the very next day !
Day 1 – Subbu,I & Trushar were both up early and wanted to take a walk for acclimatisation. The walk tested me as I was gasping with a few steps already ! Will I be able to make it to the peak or have I signed up for something more than I can do. Keeping these thoughts aside, I enjoyed the view walking a few steps up from Wayward Inn. The sunlight was out today with the tops of some trees covered with fresh snow. It was like the sun rays trying to catch the snow making the whole view so beautiful.
After having breakfast, we started at 10 am towards Pekhri by tempo traveller
The drive was 30 kms from Jibhi and with every turn the view was getting spectacular. Finally at 12 o’clock we started our trek from Pekhri to Rangthar. We were 9 trekkers along with a 10 member team of trekguide and porters. The team was very much equipped for helping us and the smiles on their faces was an evidence of the same.
The drive was 30 kms from Jibhi and with every turn the view was getting spectacular. Finally at 12 o’clock we started our trek from Pekhri to Rangthar. We were 9 trekkers along with a 10 member team of trekguide and porters. The team was very much equipped for helping us and the smiles on their faces was an evidence of the same.
The ~5 km trek to Rangthar was not that difficult or easy. Just that we were getting used to the climate and warming up for the upcoming days. It felt like the Singhagad preparation trek we had done but with altitude way up than Sinhagad. We were moving and Rain God decided to surprise us on day 1. We stopped at a home kind of shed and equipped ourselves with rain gear. As we started to trek again, the rains stopped and our comfort with rain gear was already tested. We had lunch at Lagcha ( the last village on our route before we entered the forest). The local green vegetable along with chapati was very filling and energising.
The rest of the journey to Rangthar was beautiful. With Sun and Rain God showering their love over us, we could see a beautiful rainbow stretching from one cliff to another showing its magnificence and magic. The weather was picture perfect now and we could click some beautiful photos enroute.
As soon as the tents were pitched, the rain God appeared again to pat our back and clear the sky for us to see the beautiful stars. Rain at the end of the day after we reached the campsite was like a ritual to celebrate our everyday’s win and it affirmed our one step forward towards completion.
Every campsite had a temple like deity around the place which I feel is a faith that trekkers and porters have built to invite the deity to protect us while we camp in that place. There was one here as well and around every campsite we stayed. Thank you God for protecting us and being our saviour is what I would always pray to these special deities.
The tea & maggi was like a big reward to finish day 1. Explored the place and saw the stars as it got dark. After the rice and sprout curry dinner, we called it a day.
Day 2 – The sunrise woke us up in a very beautiful manner. This is what I feel we miss in the cities. The mountain caps we could see beyond Tirthan valley which were only white ( because of snow ) and black ( because of rain clouds ) last night showed beautiful colours as the sun was shining bright on them. Nature is so healing and divine and when you soak into it, it really fills you up with a lot of energy. I was completely enjoying this moment facing the sun into its eye and drenching into the sunlight to fill my cup of energy.
Post breakfast,we started the climb for day 2. The day packs were better arranged this time based on experience of day 1.
No matter how prepared you are, your limits are always tested. It was happening at the start of each day. It was a steep climb just after we left Rangthar. We started to enter the snow zone. There was a bit of snow on the way to Kundri.
We walked around 6 kms on day 2 with some steep climbs till Kauni. You get a spectacular view of Himalayas and Tirthan Valley both from Rangthar and Kauni. With some snow getting enroute making it muddy to walk and also some play as the first sight of snow encouraged everyone to enjoy. The break was also for a very less time for lunch as the weather was getting bad and it would rain anytime.
While we were approaching the last leg of day 2, there was snowfall. The snow fall restricted us to finish day 2 as expected. The kids were very tired and heavy snowfall was making the visibility less. We camped earlier than expected at the campsite Kundri.
The snow was still on and we were delivered popcorn and tea in the tent to get some energy and feel warm. Thankful to the team as they didn’t stop for a moment to keep us safe and worked to collect sticks and tree trunks for the bonfire every evening as soon as we reached the campsite.
As the snowfall stopped, we enjoyed evening snack. Made a snowman and played with snow. This was a fun filled evening after the day’s hard work !
This campsite had a water stream which was extremely cold because of the weather.
We were told to pack our bags and be ready by 8:30 am the next day as it was the D-day and we had long walking hours as we had to cover some distance we had missed to cover the previous day.
The temperature was almost -10 degrees and almost 3 layers inside the sleeping bag was required to keep us warm.
Day 3 –Not knowing what’s in store for us on day 3, we started the day early around 5:30 am as the sunrise was very early in the mountains. It felt way too colourful because of the snow last evening. Mornings have always been serene and calm. The birds made beautiful sounds and it felt like being in heaven.
The climb started to be natural and gradual and at some places steep. Slowly and steadily we were only in the snow now. No signs of any other colour but white. It was so expansive to look around and just admire the place. We had to follow the footprints of our guide as we didn’t know where we would land up if we tried to make our own trail.
The magnificent Marahni Peak was visible and just below that at a distance from our planned campsite as well. The campsite was fully drenched in snow and the idea of staying here last night was giving chills to all. The Sun God was helpful to shine bright as we walked in the snow to help us feel the space and slowly after walking for almost 4 hours we reached our destination ( for time being ) Marahni Peak – 3670 m.
The joy and excitement was at the peak. There were pictures, clicks and smiles and greetings everywhere for making it till here. I was happy to have made it this time.
Our team had been following a tradition to make prasad and offering it to deities on the way at every campsite. This time it was gud roti for all of us as a prasad and we happily ate making it to the top safely.
Thanking the space for its magnificence and making us feel expanded, we started our descent from the top. This was the trickiest part of the whole trek.
If you happen to visit the peak during any other time without snow, i believe it would be easier to descend but the fresh snow, not knowing the depth of it and walking on the ridge line made it completely scary. As we crossed glacier after glacier passing through the ridges, the team kept on giving encouragement as it was just some more and that some more I felt was never ending. There was no option but to walk as we had to reach the campsite (which was not at all visible yet )
We reached a place where we could find some rocks to stop by and have our lunch. The food felt divine intervention in this moment as we were tired of walking in the snow. We were hardly eating but the idea of a break made some moments. Kids changed their wet socks to fresh ones getting ready for the next stretch.
Post lunch as we started to walk, there were more ridges to cross and a deep descent at some points and some ascends as well. We were climbing up and down the mountain peaks and were tired now. We crossed the pass and moved on to Sainj valley side. After a long walk, Ved showed us the campsite. There was some sigh of relief as now we have a target to reach. It was 4 pm already.
We reached a place where we could find some rocks to stop by and have our lunch. The food felt divine intervention in this moment as we were tired of walking in the snow. We were hardly eating but the idea of a break made some moments. Kids changed their wet socks to fresh ones getting ready for the next stretch. Post lunch as we started to walk, there were more ridges to cross and a deep descent at some points and some ascends as well. We were climbing up and down the mountain peaks and were tired now. We crossed the pass and moved on to Sainj valley side. After a long walk, Ved showed us the campsite. There was some sigh of relief as now we have a target to reach. It was 4 pm already
We sleighed, walked and the last stretch was more dangerous than expected as the small trees were covered with snow and we didn’t know where we were stepping. We finally reached the campsite between 5:30 to 6:30 as we were split and took our time to make it. This was a long walk of 10 hours all in snow and we were happy to be in a small hut made by locals and a bonfire inside it. Kids were almost falling asleep now. The temperature was -14 degrees and with many layers we finally rested in our sleeping bags in the hut.
Day 4 – Lovely morning with sunshine made all of us feel happy. The stream nearby was very cold but very refreshing. Today was the rest day but we planned to descend down a bit as there was only snow around and we wanted to cover some distance and be at a place to stay without snow. The breakfast puri bhaji was so fulfilling as all of us were hungry. Ved helped kids sleigh and play in snow.
The breakfast puri bhaji was so fulfilling as all of us were hungry. Ved helped kids sleigh and play in snow.
After playing for a while, we packed up and started to descend. It felt like we were climbing more but eventually we were descending down from mountains. There was a lot of snow in the first half of the day and some just after lunch. We had to sleigh again for a stretch and we almost were slowly out of the snow.
As soon as we reached the campsite of Raj Thach, kids helped to pitch the tents.
It started to rain heavily and we were this time sitting in tents, chit chatting along with hot pakoras and maggie.
The sunset was truly mesmerising.
Kids made thank you cards for Ved and his team to express their gratitude.
During dinner Ved mentioned a thing which I would always remember. He said ” You are already at a height where 90-95 percent of people do not climb or reach.So if you are already where most people cannot reach, you are already ahead of them.”
After the dinner we called it a day. This felt like an accomplishment already as we had left snow behind and were back in the green fields full of freshness and full of life.
Day 5 –
The sunrise was amazing as always. The ease was now settling in. Today we were to start late as the distance and trail was much easier.
We had a relaxing start to the day and soaked in the sun with some photography. As we were saying bye to this campsite, it was now sinking in that the adventure was about to end.
This was a photoshoot day and it felt like roaming in the jungle with beautiful nature made structures. Padam ji, who was helping us on the route had to literally stop every 100 mtr as we were wanting to capture all that we could and pose for some brilliant shots.
There was a beautiful patch of yellow and purple flowers.
We reached the final campsite at Sara lake in 2 hours just at lunch time. The rain Gods obviously followed us. This lake on the Sainj Valley side. This lake has a floating island and wild animals do come here to drink water. Our guide showed us the paw prints of a bear.
Now there was some connectivity for us to inform our people that we are safe. For me this place was like a combination of all the 5 elements we are made up of (the water, earth, air, fire in the form of a campfire and space). We could see the sky amid all the trees. After eating heartful of yummy puri bhaji, we all took some rest. This was the last evening and we were making it count by being around the campfire chit chatting and sharing our lives and journeys while the kids were now independently playing in a tent. I could feel the joy in my heart to have found friends and fellow parents in this parenting journey having so much resemblance and yet so much to learn from them.
The final dinner was chole rice along with the chef special prasad vermicelli halwa ( a sweet dish made of vermicelli, ghee, jaggery & dryfruits ). This was a celebration day for all of us as this was the last night to experience nature so near and so full.
After we went to sleep, we could hear the team sing songs and dance.
Day 6 – The morning was equally bright and beautiful with birds chirping in their beautiful voices. The ginger tea tasted amazing while I was sitting near the campfire and writing my gratitude journal for all the adventure and experience. We all were ready to start our final descent of the trek. After having delicious parathas, we were ready to start. This time was very emotional for me as I was filled with gratitude for everyone around including the mountains, nature and people for making this adventure count.
We clicked a picture and started for Brishangad. Subbu, Chirag & Trushar decided to carry the big trek bags which were carried by porters till date. This was like a victory lap for each one of us. The descent was very steep as with every turn we were descending 10 mtr. There were beautiful waterfalls we saw on the way.
The trail was well defined. Walking through the cider, pine and oak forest the smell of cider was very prevalent. The rhododendron trees were loaded with beautiful red rhododendrons.
And after walking for 6 kms we finally reached Brishangad where our vehicles were ready to take us to Jibhi.
The joy, fulfilment and celebration of completion had completely taken over everyone. The spree of congratulations and thank you felt never ending.
We clicked a photo finish shot with the beautiful background and headed back to Jibhi.
Jibhi was a 3 hours drive from Brishangad and we crossed Shanghad and a few other places to reach Jibhi by 2 pm.
After freshening up, we had a sumptuous meal along with memories of the adventure.
Like every experience, this adventure ended on a very happy note, we were all so grateful to the whole team who supported us throughout and made our journey a remarkable and memorable one.
Overall the whole experience was so enriching for all of us. The fun, excitement, learnings, living in nature with no outside connectivity, absorbing everything being in the present moment and feeling fulfilled with everything around is what I felt.
This journey is the one for me to cherish for the rest of my life as I did it this time along with my family and friends and most importantly with my 7 year old Ira and her friends Rutika & Saanvi who are no less than daughters for me and whom I consider have enriched my life in many ways already.
Dear Ira, Rutika & Saanvi – I dedicate this blog to you ! Thank you for filling my heart with everything it was supposed to be !
L to R – Ira, Rutika, Saanvi
Reference Pictures of the route.
Pic Courtesy – Internet
